The chicken enchiladas fill a large platter, smothered in green chili and paired with rice and black beans. Carne adovada, roasted pork in red chili, is a full plate of New Mexican flavor. While most of the menu follows a “pub grub” theme, there are some welcome nods to the Southwest. There’s also the option to build one’s own pizza with a customized combination of toppings. Toppings come in familiar configurations such as margherita and BBQ chicken with occasional specials such as a pie adorned with slices of smoked salmon. The pizzas have a slight char and brittleness on the bottoms and edges but yield to a chewier interior crust. The 10-inch pies are sized for one person or maybe two to share with along with a salad or an appetizer. That dough also shows up just where it would be expected: in a section of the menu devoted to pizza. The salmon BLT is a perennial favorite with fish from local purveyor Chula Seafood, and there are daily specials such as blackened ono wrapped in Four Peaks beer bread, a variant of the house pizza dough with a texture somewhere near the intersection of pita, tortilla, and lavash. Sandwiches are structured around fillings such as chicken breast, roast beef, and sliced turkey. The OG burger features a moist patty in a yielding bun topped with a choice of cheese and not a lot else to create a distraction. fish and chipsĪmong the entrees, there are half a dozen burgers. Salads include a familiar Caesar and a Southwest Chop of greens with toppings like avocado, corn, quinoa, and black beans. Edamame are simple and straightforward, augmented only with sea salt. For a slightly lighter taste, the Thai hummus takes the traditional puree of chickpeas and adds peanut flavor and chile heat. Starters include bar favorites like soft pretzels and chicken wings. Southwest chop saladīeverages aside, it would be difficult to walk away from Four Peaks hungry due to the extensive food offerings, most of them quite hearty and all of them generously portioned. They’re also served closer to room temperature. These brews are a throwback to traditional methods with natural carbonation producing less fizziness. The cask-conditioned ales are another avenue for beer exploration. Pumpkin Porter arrived early in 2020 because, in the words of founder Andy Ingram, “By any measure, summer 2020 has sucked.” As temperatures climb into triple digits, there are warm weather alternatives such as hefeweizen or beers with citrus notes. pretzelīeyond the usual line-up, Four Peaks brews a variety of seasonal beers. There’s also a white ale, multiple IPAs, a Kolsch-style ale, an oatmeal stout, a peach beer, and even a green tea brew among the beverages in regular rotation. 8th Street ale is a more straightforward brew for the drinker accustomed to mass-production beers. Most customers probably already know Four Peaks by its flagship Kilt Lifter, a Scottish-style ale that has become an unlikely favorite in a hot climate. While the kids enjoy their beer-battered fish-and-chips or chicken strips (alcohol burned off during frying), the adults can enjoy the brewery’s output. Minors accompanied by parents are welcome, and Four Peaks even has a children’s menu offering smaller portions of menu favorites. All customers, even those sitting at the bar, need to check in first at the host station. During the current pandemic, brewery tours are suspended, but dine-in service with reduced capacity is available. Inside there’s a large bar and two dining rooms, one of which has an impressive view of the production area of the building. It’s shaded for the most part and cooled by massive fans on hot days. Those who pedal along 8th Street are rewarded with a corral that can accommodate at least 16 bicycles next to the patio. If the distance seems a little far, the walk or bike ride from the station is a pleasant one through the University Heights neighborhood. The location is just under half a mile from the Dorsey/Apache light rail station and Tempe Streetcar stop. carne adovadaįour Peaks’ 1892 building, once a creamery, is now home to both a working brewery and a large pub that serves the company’s beers along with a hearty menu designed to incorporate and complement those brews. That news, one of many acquisitions of regional breweries, led to concern about the transaction’s impact on other craft beer producers and inevitable accusations of “selling out.” While the financial arrangements may be different behind the scenes, it’s reassuring that little has changed, and some aspects have even improved, for the consumer. It has been about five years since the surprise announcement that local favorite Four Peaks, one of the craft beer pioneers in Arizona, was being acquired by the multinational giant Anheuser-Busch InBev.
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